d ~ 138'931'200 km: day 54
At this time of the year surfers are attracted to the big waves in a range of places from Puerto Rico and Morocco to
Hawaii.
听
International professional big wave rider and adventure athlete Mark Visser hunts down and rides some of the biggest waves on the planet. His most recent triumphant ride was on January 20th. Riding 30-40 foot waves in complete darkness at Jaws off the coast of Maui. With this ride Mark announced the "9 Lives" Project, a Series of "world first" extreme adventures.
听
In order to see this content you need to have both Javascript enabled and Flash Installed. Visit 主播大秀 Webwise for full instructions. If you're reading via RSS, you'll need to visit the blog to access this content.
听
Riding on waves out in the sea with nothing between you and nature but a surfboard seems to take more than just technique - it's about understanding the climate. Here is听Mark's take on swells, thrills and heroes...
What is your first surfing memory?
I was 10 years old and I remember getting this little white wash wave and riding it in until my fins hit the sand, It was the coolest thing I'd ever done!!!! From that day on, I wanted to be a surfer.
How long have you been surfing and how did you get into it?
听
I've been surfing for 18 years now. I moved up to Queensland when I was 9, and loved the beach, so it was really only a matter of time.
How many tries did it take for you to surf your first wave or for you to make it out to the line-up?
The first wave that I rode was about 6 months after I got a board for my birthday. I didn't have anyone to show me what to do, so I would just hang out surfing the white washes, but then one day I caught a wash that formed into a real wave - then I was hooked.
Where have you experienced your most exciting ride?
I've had so many, it's really hard to pick one, but I would say Teahupoo in Tahiti. The intensity of that wave is amazing and when you get a good one there, it leaves you buzzing for weeks.
Image courtesy of Anthony Warry
听How did it feel to ride Jaws at night in Hawaii?
The first time I ever surfed there I smashed into the cliff, so right from the start I had so much respect for the place. Jaws is one of the biggest waves in the world and it's also one of the most powerful too. When you're on the wave riding, it's an amazing feeling of speed and excitement. It's so much fun being right in the centre point of a huge ball of energy that is just moulding around you.
What are the ingredients for a perfect surf?
Big swells that are coming from way out to sea and when they hit, if there are no winds with them, this is what makes it perfect! The waves are big and clean and very smooth to ride. That's the best.
听
Image courtesy of Maxum
听
听Where are your top five surf spots?
1. Teahupoo, Tahiti - just everything about the wave and the place, the water temp is so warm and the colours are amazing too.
2. Namotu, Fiji - it has so many good waves all around it, really good diving and fishing too and the Fijian people are so loving, its cool.
3. Cape Town, South Africa - that's where I have rode one of my biggest waves so far.
4. Jaws, Hawaii - the night ride at jaws is something that I'll never forget and its very special to me.
5. Western Australia - so many good, big waves. That place has them all!
What type of surf board do you use?
I use a lot of different boards. I have tow boards (boards with straps) that are 5'5 and big paddle in boards that go up to 10'6. I will often take about 6-8 boards with me to each location because every day the conditions change and you need the right board to suit how the waves are breaking.
If you could do anything else what would it be?
Maybe play football (AFL or Rugby Union)?
Who are your surfing heroes?
In the surfing world, I really liked Luke Egan because he was a goofy footer like me (right foot forward on surf board) and he was a very powerful surfer! I was also a big fan of the Hopgood brothers, they charge, they are great tube riders and seem like good people, but my main heroes are not actually surfers. I have always really looked up to Michael Jordan and Muhammad Ali. I love their work ethic and how they were just the best in their field.
Can you ever see a time when you are not riding the waves?
Never!
In one word how would you describe your relationship with the ocean?
Me
听