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Climbing Denali, Day 11

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Graham Gillies | 13:07 UK time, Saturday, 13 June 2009

Friday 12th, Mark called at 1.30pm Alaska time, from Basin Camp at 14,200ft. Yesterday they cached some gear at 16,200ft after negotiating the 800ft snow and ice face of Headwall. It is the steepest climbing of the whole route and they found it tough, but managed to complete it in a good time, returning to 14,200ft for a rest and acclimatization day. There is a fixed line on Headwall and they weren't fully laden for their first climb up it, but tomorrow they will need all their skills negotiating the pitch with a full pack that can easily unbalance you.

The weather is still good with just a few clouds that they are keeping an eye on. The plan at the moment is to move to High Camp at 17,200ft tomorrow, a distance of 1.75 miles from where they are at Basin Camp. Then on Monday they will make a round trip back to 16,200ft to collect their cache - 0.75 miles from 16,200ft to 17,200ft. Bids for the summit can be made from either 16,200ft or 17,200ft and it very much depends on the weather and how everyone is managing to acclimatise. Mark is feeling fit and strong but definitely felt the thinner air at 16,200ft.

The expedition to climb Denali is pushing Mark in new directions as an adventurer. He is used to making his own decisions, being active and constantly on the move on the bike. This kind of mountaineering is a slow sport and he has had to change down a few gears. To have joined this mountain expedition after all the months of being so busy with training, expedition preparations and public engagements, he is finding it very strange to stop every day and need to take so much time to rest and acclimatise at altitude.

For success and safety the guides operate the group with discipline and hard work, and whilst everyone is getting on really well, living in close proximity with perfect strangers does present another set of unique challenges as does living in the same clothes for weeks!

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