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Ready For The Climb

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Mark Beaumont Mark Beaumont | 15:09 UK time, Tuesday, 12 January 2010

In nine days Damian, Sebastian and I have completed the approach to . The climb started at about 2500m up a 25km valley to at 4300m.

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Thankfully, the bulk of our climbing gear was carried by mules so we could travel light. After half a year on the bike, I was concerned about having the relevant fitness to climb with a heavy pack!

The approach trek was along a very dusty trail with stunning views of Aconcagua and the surrounding mountains. We made a half way camp at Confluencia (3400m) to start our acclimatisation and spent a day climbing up to the south face of Aconcagua.

The climbing here is unlike any other mountain range that I have experienced and could not be more different to Denali, which I summited back in June. It is a mountain of stone and dirt, very arid for the most part, with incredibly varied rock colours and formations.

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In the last few days we have made two climbs above base camp to 4900m, Camp 1, and 5400m, Camp 2, to drop equipment and food as well as to help our acclimatisation. Today we leave on our bid for the summit. A storm has kept us at base camp for a day longer than planned, but we are still on schedule to try and reach 6965m on the 15 or 16 January.

At each new altitude I have suffered fairly sleepless nights and headaches, normal symptoms from the lessening oxygen levels. However, the body has adapted well and I feel ready to push on up. The team has been joined by Oxi, a Russian climber and the four of us seem to have similar strength and speed on the climbs.

My only contact on the upper mountain will be the satellite phone and I will try and call in with updates. Sitting in base camp, I have been hearing many stories of accidents and failed climbs so there is no sure bet of our success, but I feel we have done everything right to this point to give us the best chance of summiting. After seven months on expedition I would be very disappointed not to, but at the same time know that the summit is not worth losing a single finger or toe for, let alone risking my life.

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Here is a short message from my fellow climber Sebastian, for all the Spanish speaking followers of the blog. If you want to read this in English you could try using or .

I hope everyone is surviving the big freeze back in the UK!

Mark


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Hola, soy Sebastian companero de Mark en el ascenso al Aconcagua, por suerte nos llevamos muy bien dado que los dos nos gusta mucho la bicicleta! Con el correr de los dias me voy dando cuenta que es muy importante tener un grupo unido y parejo, no puede heber diferencias a esta altura. Damian no solo nos guia sino que compartie toda su experiencia con nosotros y eso mas lo vivido por Mark hace que sea mas llevadera la espera de la aclimatacion. Hoy estamos saliendo para arriba para ya no volver y en unos 4 dias intentar hacer cumbre...ojala el tiempo y el fisico acompanen, veremos...abrazo y nos vemos a la vuelta...

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