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24 September 2014

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Thrusters Diary

You are in: Cornwall > Surfing & extreme sports > Thrusters Diary > Gwithian Is Everyone's Local

Surfers

Surfers discuss whose wave it was.

Gwithian Is Everyone's Local

After 68 years in surfing Thruster has come to the conclusion that Gwithian is everyone in Cornwall's local beach.

Facts about Thruster

Thruster didn't take up surfing until he was 19, but soon became hooked and was determined to let neither a late start, nor a remarkable dearth of natural talent stand in his way.

Now aged 39 he still sincerely believes it is only a matter of time before he becomes world champion.

Also obsessed with snowboarding, at which he is marginally more impressive (he can stand up), Thruster has been writing surfing and extreme sports articles for 14 years. His next journalistic challenge is to write a good one.

主播大秀 Break: Gwithian

Surf Trips: Mexico, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Philippines, Fiji, Indonesia, NZ, Hawaii, Australia, South Africa, Canaries, Portugal, Spain, France, Ireland.

Surfers' Ear Operations: 3 (but needs another)

Would love to live in: Galicia

Board: 6'4" x 18 戮 rounded pin (and a 7'4" log when really desperate)

Standard: Easily one of the best in his cul-de-sac.

What follows is completely obvious. However, I鈥檇 never thought of it.

Now, I鈥檓 no Einstein, but a couple of people I know that read this column make me look like one, so I鈥檓 guessing they hadn鈥檛 thought of it either.

Before reading on, I should point out to sensitive readers that the revelation that follows is neither a happy one, nor one you can do anything about. It鈥檚 akin to finding out you鈥檙e the thickest kid in school, or your breath stinks. You just have to accept it and get on with life.

Despite knowing that the waves are usually a bit gutsier up the coast, living in Hayle, I always end up surfing Gwithian. This is due to a) lethargy and b) the assumption that the further east you go, the more crowded the waves become.

Just a few weeks ago I went for an early afternoon surf at Gwithers. It was well out of peak holiday season and most surfers would have been at school or work, but it was packed.听 At 3pm I counted 120 people in the water!

The next day I surfed Perranporth in identical conditions. I鈥檇 timed it badly, work and schools were finished and yet only 30 people were out.

Since then, I鈥檝e made a metal note of crowd numbers on my rare up-county forays and every time it鈥檚 been way less crowded than an equivalent day at Gwithian.听 Why?

Here鈥檚 the obvious bit鈥withian is EVERYBODY鈥橲 local!

Most of the swells Cornwall receives are weak, dribbly affairs forcing surfers to head to their nearest west facing North Coast beach. Now, whether you live in Penzance, St.Ives, Hayle, Porthleven, Camborne, Helston, or anywhere on the lizard, Gwithian is that spot!

It鈥檚 the local break for 99% of Kerrier and Penwith districts (save for the 38 men and assorted beasts that live nearer Sennen), which is a total of 160,000 people. And that鈥檚 in winter!!!

As you head East there are still a few decent size towns, but even in Newquay the numbers can be diluted over lots of beaches just a few miles up and down the coast.

In summary, we鈥檙e stuffed and there鈥檚 absolutely nothing we can do about it.

Gwithian Beach in Hayle

No waves thus empty line up

Devastated by the discovery that I live next to the most crowded surfing beach in the universe, you can imagine my joy and surprise when, the very next week, I arrived at Gwithian to a perfect head high peak with just 3 people on. It wouldn鈥檛 last; people would surely spot it. I had to seize the moment.

In slightly less than no time flat I was in my suit and at the water鈥檚 edge.听 Being, in my early 80鈥檚 I need to do a few stretches before paddling out otherwise my take off is a disaster. In my panic to get these stretches out of the way, I bent down too quickly, put my back out, and couldn鈥檛 surf for a week. To make things even worse, my breath stinks!听

Thruster

last updated: 21/11/07

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