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The Potting Shed - May
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Message 1.Â
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Friday, 1st May 2009
Hi folks, welcome to May’s Potting Shed.
I think this is probably my most favourite month in the garden; most of the hard work is done and the fruits of a labour are ahead of us.
Jobs for me this month include, planting out dahlias, dividing polyanths and sowing wallflower seed (for next year’s plants.
Hope you all enjoy your bank holiday weekend, in the garden or otherwise.
Btw, can I just say that everyone is welcome to join in this thread, even if you don’t have a garden….it’s /not/ just for serious gardeners! -
Message 2
Posted by RosieT (U2224719) on Friday, 1st May 2009
eply to David K in message 1
Splendid! Thank you, David.
I am discovering the delights of our new garden, and it's great to have one again. I keep smelling wallflowers in gardens as I go around here, and wishing I had some - now I shall start the search for seeds!
I have planted some Real geraniums in the pots as well.
We have some wonderful purple flags in the borders by where the car is parked, but only 3 flowers, and a couple of large clumps of leaves. Would I be likely to get more flowers if I lift the rhizomes in the Autumn, and replant? I know little of irises (except that they are lovely).
P.s. I've planted masses of sweet peas again this year! -
Message 3
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Friday, 1st May 2009
Hi Rosie! X
I’m very pleased to hear about your new garden.
I'm sure you know anyway (but I'll say it for those who don't) wallflowers are biannual..meaning they flower the year after the seed is sown.
If the seed is sown this month, the young plants can be planted out into a nursery bed in early summer, then lifted in October and planted into their permanent position.
As for the Iris, the best time to divide and transplant them is 6-8 weeks after they finish blooming.
Plant the divisions shallow, with buds no more than 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Planting too deeply can result in plants with abnormal growth, reduced vigor and little or no flowering. -
Message 4
Posted by halftidy (U8567554) on Friday, 1st May 2009
Help please David - what can I do with my cosmos and cleome which are in my polytunnel in seed boxes and desperately needing to go out. But frost is of course ever present - will I have to pot them on - or can I leave them in the seed boxes????? Or dare I put them out under fleece???? I foresee same problem with squashes - why do I always do things too early???
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Message 5
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Friday, 1st May 2009
Norty, Halftidy! I do try to deter from starting too early, to avoid this situation.
Where you live is probably the biggest deciding factor.
I don't think potting them will be necessary as I feel fairly sure that there won't be anymore damaging frosts and covering them with fleece would probably give them enough protection.
This is me speaking from the Midlands...if you are south of me, you have a very good chance of getting them out this weekend.
Good luck! -
Message 6
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Friday, 1st May 2009
Just reading back my opening message, I referred to wallflowers as being 'biannual' - Sorry, that should have read 'biennial'.
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Message 7
Posted by RosieT (U2224719) on Friday, 1st May 2009
<eply to David K in message 3
Thank you, David, that soundsgood for irises - and yes, i was thinking of getting wallflowers ready for next year xxx -
Message 8
Posted by irene (U13716349) on Friday, 1st May 2009
i planted some perennial wallflowers last week, 'bowles mauve'. they have settled in really well and smell divinely. used to have some ages ago and can recommend them for flowering from now till november and forming a huge clump.
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Message 9
Posted by coffeethimble (U12449394) on Friday, 1st May 2009
Snails!
YUK! just picked tons of snails out of my small back garden for 'disposal' - unfortunatly, after even a couple of minutes of successful hunting, the mental image of the slimy footsuckers sticks in your head for hours. Has to be done though, the Hostas are just coming out and I've some nice little pea seedlings all fresh and eager.
Tried organic pellets, don't seem to work. Will be cranking out the slug pub soon.
Yuk!Slugs. I shall dream of them tonight. Yuk! -
Message 10
Posted by San Fairy Anneâ„¢ (U2230890) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
Sat, 02 May 2009 06:10 GMT, in reply to coffeethimble in message 9
Our Quince is in bloom at last! The trees are 7+ years with us, making a 'fence' round the compost heap. Hopefully we will get a crop this year. We had 5 fruit last year! Would it be worth taking a soft brush out and polinating some as we haven't seen many bees recently? I will try and post a photo later today.
³§¹ó´¡²Ô²Ô±ðâ„¢ -
Message 11
Posted by RosieT (U2224719) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
I adore the smell, it wafts me back to the 1950s ...
Want lily-of-the-valley, too.
And hollyhocks. -
Message 12
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
SFA - I think quince is worth growing just for the blossom alone: [IMG]/IMG]
I'm not sure hand pollination is necessary, but it wouldn’t do any harm. -
Message 13
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
Hi Rosie, re your wish list.
You'll need woodland conditions for your lily-of-the-valley and although the old fashioned hollyhocks of your youth were probably about 8 feet tall, you can now get some really nice ones that are about 2 ½ feet tall. -
Message 14
Posted by Flightless Anachronistic Bird (U6437464) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
A couple of months ago I asked about pruning an elder (Guincho purple) that had reached about 3 meters in height. I left it rather late, when the buds were almost beginning to break, and cut it back to a two foot 'stump'. I then held my breath while it sulked for a month. It's now doing really well - in fact possible too well, since it's produced a mass of young shoots from the old wood.
My question is, should I remove some of these to try and leave a nice framework which I can prune back to next time, or should I leave it and prune next winter? I'm a bit worried that it will 'bleed' if I prune again now (the shoots are too big to 'pinch out') - and that maybe a second hack in a couple of months will be too much for it.
Out of curiosity, is there any chance that it will flower this year on the new wood?
(Sorry not great photos, but gives you some idea of the density of new shoots.) -
Message 15
Posted by San Fairy Anneâ„¢ (U2230890) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
Sat, 02 May 2009 12:33 GMT, in reply to David K in message 12
Actually they are not the japonica but these. (but they smell really nice too)
Cydonia oblonga,
³§¹ó´¡²Ô²Ô±ðâ„¢ -
Message 16
Posted by Flightless Anachronistic Bird (U6437464) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
SFA, The flowers in your photo are gorgeous
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Message 17
Posted by San Fairy Anneâ„¢ (U2230890) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
Sat, 02 May 2009 17:21 GMT, in reply to Flightless (Anachronistic) Bird in message 14
Might this answer your question FAB? ³§¹ó´¡²Ô²Ô±ðâ„¢ -
Message 18
Posted by Flightless Anachronistic Bird (U6437464) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
Hi SFA, One problem here is that my garden 'soil' is basically sand, so plants that would be traditionally cut right back in order to get good growth/stem colour tend to curl up their toes if you do that to them (voice of experience with Budlheia (spelling?) and Cornus alba - neither of which are usually thought of as delicate). I'd like to create a bit more of a framework of permanent wood than the 2 foot high stumps that I created earlier this year. Looking for a bid of advice from someone as to whether to do that now, or wait until the end of this growing season.
I'm still not really clear about the flowers - the link you gave suggests cutting down to ground level to get good foliage, but I rather like having the flowers too - they have a kind of pink wash and look very pretty against the purple foliage. -
Message 19
Posted by Penstemon (U4429639) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
Personally I would prune, if you want to give it a better shape, after the plant has flowered. This will give it time for new growth to establish for the next years flowers. I have never ever gardened in sandy soil (as I herald from the West Country and solid clay!)but I would maybe just prune to the shape and height you want each year?
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Message 20
Posted by Leaping Badger (U3587940) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
Hi everyone, I'll be back soon with some requests for more advice on herbs, and on 'potting on' (as I believe it's called in the trade) seedlings.
Hope your gardens are all as joy-giving as mine.
'Ö' -
Message 21
Posted by EurekaBlitzen (U11200477) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
Im one of those people, who really have no idea in this area. But Im very much enjoying this post. Id like to do more in that area.
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Message 22
Posted by Flightless Anachronistic Bird (U6437464) on Saturday, 2nd May 2009
sausagesrus, that sounds sensible. I'll try and give it a try. I'm usually away a lot at that stage in the summer, and trying to decide what to cut when the plants 'got its clothes on' is a bit daunting, but I can see it makes sense. My poor garden suffers a lot from me not having time when it needs it.
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Message 23
Posted by Isca (U9480909) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
Hello all, and Happy May!
I'm back with another beginner's query..One serendipitous find in my little garden earlier this year was a whole load of peach stones. I've no idea where they came from (my neighbour may be a candidate for Fruit Addicts Anon) but one of them was sprouting. More in hope than expectation, I put it in a pot on the kitchen window ledge.
I now have an 8" high seedling. I'm worried that if it shoots up any more it will outgrow its strength, keel over and my small triumph will be short-lived.
What should I do with it now? Plant it out in the garden? If so, how and where?
I've never grown anything half as exotic as a peach. What sort of conditions do they like..?
All advice or experience v welcome!
- isca -
Message 24
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
Isca - Having grown peaches for years, I could provide you with as much cultural info as you wish….alas, I've never grown one from a stone.
I'll confine myself to suggesting you plant it in a sunny south facing direction.
The soil should be well-dug to a depth of about 2ft, with plenty of compost being added. The aim is to ensure that the soil is capable of holding water, but at the same time drain well.
The soil should be neutral Ph i.e. neither too acidic nor too alkaline. -
Message 25
Posted by Penstemon (U4429639) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
I have spent a very enjoyable afternoon being paid to stroll around plant nurseries, spending other peoples money.. Heaven (although my DS didn't seem to share my enthusiasm).
My patio now looks like a nursery itself, but the new borders I am planning will be started next week! -
Message 26
Posted by Flightless Anachronistic Bird (U6437464) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
Watcha bought, sausagesrus? Me, nosey? Surely not.
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Message 27
Posted by Eeekamouse (U9004398) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
Help !
I have a Viburnum Burkwoodii which is one of my favourite plants because it flowers so late.
But the leaves are getting eaten to pieces.
Any ideas on what it might be ?
Thanks -
Message 28
Posted by Penstemon (U4429639) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
Well the customer wants a late summer border (they are going on holiday in July, but want colour for August onwards). I got 2 different Heleniums, rudbeckias, correopsis, penstemon, monarda and Gaura, for the back and middle and some Geums and geraniums (perennial) for the front which although are flowering now can be cut back and will flower again later in the summer.
I am going to fill any gaps in the front with annuals, and then plant up some aubretia and campanula to cover the stone (its a raised bed)at the front of the border. In the autumn I shall put in some early flowering bulbs like Irs reticulata
If you are interested I could take some before and after photos? -
Message 29
Posted by Penstemon (U4429639) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
Not sure but I guess it could be catepillars? Have you seen anything on the leaves?
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Message 30
Posted by Flightless Anachronistic Bird (U6437464) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
sausagesrus, Yes, it would be brilliant to see some before and after photos. Really interesting to see your list of plants - I've just got the encyclopedia out, and looked them all up. I'd never heard of Monarda or Gaura before, so great seeing the pictures.
It's really interesting to hear about garden design, because I'm pretty carp at it. There are plants I love, and I put them in: some die, some sulk, and a few have done well - but almost inevitably end up too big or too something for where they are, so my back garden is a bit of a mess with big 'holes' between some of the plants - especially as a lovely 'forest' of Euphorbia lathyris which should have flowered this year got killed by the frost The problem is aided and abetted by the garden having gone from being too hot and dry in the summer to now being almost entirely shaded in the 10+ years that I've been here, so plants that once did well are either struggling, or have had it. (I'm hoping to buy a couple of extra meters at the bottom of the garden when the neighbouring house is sold and then take an unattractive conifer out that is currently screening off an unattractive corrugated iron shed on the land beyond. For the moment it doesn't seem worth spending too much effort on redesigning the garden.)
I didn't know that you could get Geraniums to 'come again'. I have some Geranium phaeum that self seed and flower beautifully, but always suffer from mildew (they are beginning to already this year). Is it worth trying to cut them back, or will I just kill them? -
Message 31
Posted by irene (U13716349) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
annual rose report. this year the first of ours in bloom was our dark pink rugosa. followed by 'sombreuil'. oddly enough the first last year 'kathleen harrop' has its flower buds only just colouring up. funny old gardening world!
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Message 32
Posted by Isca (U9480909) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
Thanks for the peach advice, David. The soil here is quite acidic, so I should lime it before planting Junior out, yes?
Or... I've just surveyed the available bed space, and there isn't any. Or very little. So: Would Peach Jnr be happy in a container? (I have no idea how large they grow!)
Another one here with no idea about garden design -- I keep changing my mind about where to put plants so am forever moving the poor things around -- and always interested to here about schemes and see pics. -
Message 33
Posted by Penstemon (U4429639) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
Garden design, IMHO is a nightmare. Its really really hard to visualise what things wil look like once planted and grown. Height, colour, etc etc is too much for us normal mortals to take in. So I reckon its a moveable feast. Take photos and tag them with what you like and don't like at various times of year. A bed may look lovely in May but c**p in August.
I tell my customers to live with stuff for a while then if you don't like it, move it!!
Most things, except big established shrubs and some tempremental plants like Daphnes, can be moved in the autumn or the spring so its not set in stone. -
Message 34
Posted by Flightless Anachronistic Bird (U6437464) on Sunday, 3rd May 2009
One of my few successful moves was to get out in the garden one year with a load of pea sticks when the plants were still in full foliage and mark out what needed moving where - at the times of year when plants can be moved successfully it's often difficult to judge how much space they will fill.
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Message 35
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Monday, 4th May 2009
Isca - If it were me, I would take a Ph reading before planting your peach outside and I prefer calcified seaweed to lime.
Yes they can be grown in containers (perhaps your best option)...this is some very sound advice: -
Message 36
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Monday, 4th May 2009
Hi folks! I thought I would relate an experience of buying a Savoy cabbage from my local supermarket at the weekend and offer it as a very good reason for growing your own.
In preparing this cabbage for yesterday's lunch. I duly cut it in half (outwardly it seemed to be a fresh & healthy specimen) but it was noticeably difficult to cut and examining the two halves in cross section, it was apparent that all was not well.
It seemed to have several stems growing within the head and consequently no normal leaf formation…. everything seemed to be twisted & contorted.
To me this suggests that at some stage it had been subjected to some nasty Frankenstein spray...probably an herbicide.
I've kept the evidence, which I intend to take back to the supermarket. -
Message 37
Posted by halftidy (U8567554) on Monday, 4th May 2009
David - thank you so much - I have been so busy over the weekend with garden and other things so cosmos still indoors - I am in Northamptonshire so fingers crossed and next w/e I will be brave!! I have a load of fleece and this w/e invented a hoop system to support fleece tunnels so if the fleece freezes it will not freeze onto the plants. I cut lengths of old useless hosepipe and then threaded v small dia canes into each end and pushed them into the ground - it works!!!!! so now I need a load of old hosepipe to make enough tunnels for the squashes and cosmos etc!!! (I bought a roll of fleece on ebay 3 yrs ago and it is still going strong).
Honeysuckle question from perplexed OH - he has planted a honeysuckle against a wooden fence opposite kitchen window - he prepared a lush bed of old rotted compost for it - it is in a well drained bank in a very dry spot, facing west with no wind to speak of. It now looks v droopy and unhappy - can you think what might have gone wrong? The leaves are now yellowing. The position has previously had a v successful honeysuckle which just had had enough after many good years. -
Message 38
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Tuesday, 5th May 2009
Hi Halfidy
I'm at a bit of a loss to know what is going on with your honeysuckle.
They are basically a hedgerow/woodland plant that does best in shade or partial shade. The soil should be rich and leafy with plenty of added moisture-retaining organic matter...so that shouldn't be the problem.
It may be honeysuckle leaf blight or aphids (check the underside of the leaves, or (unlikely) the fact the space was previously occupied by another honeysuckle.
Good luck with your other stuff, a frost free week ahead is forecast. -
Message 39
Posted by halftidy (U8567554) on Tuesday, 5th May 2009
Thanks David - lets keep fingers crossed for the honeysuckle - as a matter of interest should one spread out the roots when planting out - or leave them in the root ball? I am not sure which he did!!!
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Message 40
Posted by DeeKay Bee - Disenfranchised (U236881) on Tuesday, 5th May 2009
It makes you wonder what did for the old honeysuckle, because honeysuckles can live to be very old (I think). I wonder if there's some kind of virus, or even if something has happen to change the conditions ie the drainage?
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Message 41
Posted by halftidy (U8567554) on Tuesday, 5th May 2009
v interesting point - it was over 25 yrs old and had got very leggy - it did not have any sign of disease . It is on a little bank between the wooden fence and the gravel drive. So normally very dry.
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Message 42
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Tuesday, 5th May 2009
Halftidy - Not just honeysuckle, but all potted plants tend to root better if the roots are teased away when planting. Unless this is done, they tend to go round in a circle.
Btw. Please, please, don't be offended by this, it's well meant. Although I'm always willing to help /anyone/ if I can, I never wished this forum to be a question & answer thingie to me and would be most upset if other people's input wasn't sought & taken into account. -
Message 43
Posted by DeeKay Bee - Disenfranchised (U236881) on Tuesday, 5th May 2009
Perhaps it's too dry, we have one that doesn't exactly thrive but it's by the house and fence and I think that it doesn't get enough rain because of being sheltered. That said it doesn't have yellow leaves and the spiders love it - they bind the leaves together to make nests.
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Message 44
Posted by halftidy (U8567554) on Tuesday, 5th May 2009
I have passed this to OH - many thanks. Also he did not 'tease' the roots apart so should he dig it up and do it now or just leave it - looks better tongiht!!
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Message 45
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Wednesday, 6th May 2009
Halftidy - As you say it looks better tonight, I think it's probably started to take root, in which case digging up again isn't a good idea at all and certainly not if it's been planted for a week or more.
Hope it does well for you! -
Message 46
Posted by DeeKay Bee - Disenfranchised (U236881) on Wednesday, 6th May 2009
Perhaps all the rain we had recently helped, that spell of dry weather wouldn't have done any favours to any plant that was already stressed and watering just isn't the same.
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Message 47
Posted by Skylark (struggling to be more blythe and spirited) (U6629883) on Thursday, 7th May 2009
Is there anyone here who knows tomatos? Every year I grow Gardeners Delight from seed, but this year thought it mightbe fun to try a hanging basket variety, Garden Pearl.
Unfortunately I lost the labels from the seed trays. All the plants look identical except that the ends of some of the leaves seem to be a little more pointed than on others! -
Message 48
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Thursday, 7th May 2009
You decide Skylark, but these pics give the pointy ones to Gardener's Delight.
[IMG]/IMG]…Garden Pearl
....Gardener’s Delight -
Message 49
Posted by David K (U2221642) on Thursday, 7th May 2009
Disregard my previous message! I can't tell the difference.
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Message 50
Posted by Skylark (struggling to be more blythe and spirited) (U6629883) on Thursday, 7th May 2009
Well, thanks anyway David K.
I had already planted one of the less pointy ones in a hanging basket. If it starts to grow upright instead of trailing, I shall just have to wear a safety helmet.
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