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Doggie help needed
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Message 1.Â
Posted by torbie (U14274535) on Monday, 14th June 2010
Don't usually post here (usually in DTA and TBU) but I've recently bought a labrador puppy, Megan, now just under five months old, and I'm having awful trouble getting her to walk on the lead. She's too strong already for me to control on a standard collar and lead and wears a head collar. She was fine on this for the first few weeks but now refuses to walk with it on - just sits on the pavement and won't move. The neighbours think it's hilarious but I'm not so sure! Any advice out there? Thanks in advance.
Torbs. -
Message 2
Posted by DeeKay Bee - Disenfranchised (U236881) on Monday, 14th June 2010
You could ask in the dog club F2693944?thread=7536125&latest=1#p97179961 or even on this thread F2693943?thread=7561292&latest=1#p97219098 which has lots of doggy people in it.
It's a long while since I had a puppy but I can't remember any refusing walkies. -
Message 3
Posted by gigglemahanaz2 (U14257954) on Monday, 14th June 2010
Have you tried useing one of those ones that goes over the head and around the shoulders?
Also get a strong extending lead which can go out to about I think 6 ft, if you have time try and find out about puppy training classes, ask at your local vet's, find out if weekend classes are avabile if you work in the week.
Start as you mean to go on love, your dog needs to learn early who's boss, it's you!!!O)))) -
Message 4
Posted by Moonflower (U2267264) on Monday, 14th June 2010
Do you have a friend with a well behaved dog who could accompany you on a walk? I suspect your pup would be eager to come along...
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Message 5
Posted by torbie (U14274535) on Monday, 14th June 2010
Many thanks. Yes, we go to puppy training classes every Saturday evening with a Kennel Club registered trainer. She says tickle her tummy and keep her walking which I do but it's not easy as she's now quite a large puppy. I'm afraid to go too far from home in case she just refuses to move at all as she's too heavy for me to carry. Guess I'll just have to persevere!
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Message 6
Posted by dondy (U3463640) on Monday, 14th June 2010
Deekay's right, Torbie. Venture into the Dog club thread - there are lots of nice people there who have lots of experience on doggy matters.
Lucky you to have a lab puppy !
dondy -
Message 7
Posted by torbie (U14274535) on Tuesday, 15th June 2010
Glad to be back, dondy. Megan is lovely, an awful handful but I wouldn't be without her. I'll check out the Dog Club thread. Many thanks.
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Message 8
Posted by countrypug (U9227943) on Tuesday, 15th June 2010
Torbie, if it is any help, we walk our terriers (when they need to be on leads and not running around) on a thing called a Lupi. It is a sort of harness, but tightens under the legs as opposed to going on their nose, so they don't pull, but hopefully Megan might walk on it.
My other suggestion is that as she is a lab - would she not walk for a biscuit? All the labs I know are true gannets with food!
Hope that helps.
Pug -
Message 9
Posted by What larks (U14260755) on Wednesday, 16th June 2010
The only suggestion I have is to get puppy used to wearing the headcollar indoors for a bit, maybe play with her to take her mind off it, and keep it on when she has her dinner.
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Message 10
Posted by What larks (U14260755) on Wednesday, 16th June 2010
The other thing I've just remembered is that we bought a headcollar for our dog, and had to give it up because it slipped up into his eye. We were recommended a different design, and that did the same thing. Could this have happened to your puppy?
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Message 11
Posted by torbie (U14274535) on Wednesday, 16th June 2010
Thanks Pug.
She's the only dog I've ever known not to be interested in food. She never clears her plate, just nibbles away all day, and isn't really interested in treats even. I've never had a dog like her! Still, at least she'll never be obese!! -
Message 12
Posted by torbie (U14274535) on Wednesday, 16th June 2010
Hello Skylark
She was fine on the head collar at first but then just turned against it. I've made sure it fits properly (as has the trainer at the training class we go to) and that's not a problem. I can't even get her out of the front door on it now. She just cowers in her bed and tries to hide her head as if it's a punishment. I'm seriously thinking of going back to a conventional collar and lead and just working really hard at trying to keep her under control. Problem is, she's already so strong I can hardly hold onto her. I'll have another word with teacher when we next go to classes at the weekend.
Many thanks. -
Message 13
Posted by chicken_hot_pot (U8480346) on Wednesday, 16th June 2010
Hi Torbie,
Saw a programme here in France about dog training and how to walk with them correctly. So you have control not the dog! We have a Collie who pulls like nothing on earth given half a chance.
The dogs on the programme all had ordinary collars but maybe slightly longer leads. Made from fabric - no chain on them.
The trainers taught the owners, to hold the lead behind their backs - so hold grip in you left hand with the puppy on your right hand side and hold the lead nearer the dog with your right hand as well. In reverse if your left handed or if you prefer the dog to walk on the inside of the pavement.
It sounds a bit complicated written down, but i hope you can understand what I'm getting at. It did wonders for B-dog Just wish Mr Chp would do the same with her, but can't have it all. ;O)
Let me know if it sounds like Chinese and I'll try and explain it better. -
Message 14
Posted by What larks (U14260755) on Wednesday, 16th June 2010
I've now remembered A TV programme with Victoria Stilwell working with a young bulldog who wouldn't go out. She discovered he had been put on a choke chain - which she threw in the bin. Then she took the family and the puppy to a grassy area and they played with him off the lead to get his confidence back.
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Message 15
Posted by Mustafa Grumble (U8596785) on Thursday, 17th June 2010
Thu, 17 Jun 2010 11:27 GMT, in reply to torbie
Hi Torbie - afraid I cannot help with constructive advice re the walks problem, as it's not something I've had to overcome. In terms of workable & humane control collars/harnesses, have a look at the 'Halti' range. Their head harnesses enable a frail person to walk a strong large dog with ease & control.
Re eating - personal view (so apologies if I upset anyone) is that dogs should only be fed once or twice a day, and they should not be allowed to graze. Unless ill, or very young (under 16 weeks or so), ours are all fed twice a day: bowls are put on the floor, and the dogs have an opportunity to eat; if they do not go near the bowl for more than a minute, or if they walk away from their bowl mid-meal, the bowl is removed, and the dog is not given more food until the next mealtime. Equally, we do not muck about with changing food types over a period of weeks: finish one sack, on to the next - they'll eat if they are hungry.
I think the puppy is - sub-consciously - testing its boundaries & establishing that it is the boss: it is refusing to walk on your terms, and refusing to eat on your terms. It may go against your nature to do so, but maybe a little firmness now could make your many future years with the dog that much more pleasurable? -
Message 16
Posted by What larks (U14260755) on Thursday, 17th June 2010
Just to chip in (again) - it was a Halti we bought first of all for our dog, and every time he pulled it rode up his (thinnish) nose into his eye. It didn't stop him pulling, though!
Then a trainer suggested something called a "Gentle Leader" so we invested in one of those and he made sure it fitted. The same thing happened; the dog (border collie) fought it, and came back with fur rubbed off his nose under his eye socket. So I'm not convinced that a halter can't have hurt the pup.
The lead-behind-back thing didn't work either, though it did stop my arms being pulled out of their shoulder sockets! Off lead, though, he is good as gold; walks to heel and does everything else - oh, except weaving in Agility, which he thinks is a mugs' game! He was a stray, so the lead thing may be something in a past we know noting of. -
Message 17
Posted by merrylatestarter (U10475559) on Thursday, 17th June 2010
We have a black lab, now 6years old. We had problems with her when she was younger. She was 14 weeks when we got her, a bit old, as I think they need to be put on a lead when theyre very young, and gently held, so they can get used to it. We had all sorts of collars and harnesses. Some she would pull off with her paws. Others she just wouldnt walk. In the end we gave up. She still pulls, and she is very strong, as are all labs. but the pleasure she gives us make that all worth while.
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Message 18
Posted by DeeKay Bee - Disenfranchised (U236881) on Thursday, 17th June 2010
Our first lab was 6 weeks when we got her and she was a nightmare on the lead, the other 2 were older and were/are fine. I just think it's down to the dog's own personality.
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Message 19
Posted by What larks (U14260755) on Thursday, 17th June 2010
The problem is, Torbie can't allow the dog to pull or she (I am assuming a she!) will get knocked over.
If the Haltie doesn't rub or slide, then Mustafa may be right; it is an adolescent trying it on.
Someone suggested I carry a water pistol and spray the dog every time he tried to get ahead of my knee. This worked for all of two days, then he decided that a wet nose was really quite refreshing, after all!
The water pistol has come in quite handy for spraying the leaves of indoor plants. -
Message 20
Posted by torbie (U14274535) on Thursday, 17th June 2010
Thanks everyone for all this (and yes, I am a "she"!)
I've spoken to the training lady today and we're going to have a further discussion about it at our next class. She's not the sort of dog to "test the boundaries", ie perfectly well behaved over everything else, sits, stays, etc, all to command so I think it must be the head collar. I'll report progress.
Torbs. -
Message 21
Posted by LindaLee (U2777941) on Friday, 18th June 2010
She's the only dog I've ever known not to be interested in food. She never clears her plate, just nibbles away all day, and isn't really interested in treats even.Â
Torbie, are you quite quite SURE you've got a Labrador there?! All mine have been greediguts!
Good luck with the walking/lead problem - I think your contact at the puppy class is the best person to advise you, because s/he can actually demonstrate the best tips/strategies for getting your pup to walk properly for you. -
Message 22
Posted by Lilo (U12007400) on Friday, 18th June 2010
The problem is, Torbie can't allow the dog to pull or she (I am assuming a she!) will get knocked over. Â
skylark is absolutely right. I'd be very worried about walking a dog who was this strong at a young age and not under complete control. I was once "rushed" by a young lab, sent flying, ended up in hospital with a suspected broken hip. It wasn't broken, but badly bruised with torn ligaments. I was on crutches for six weeks and most unamused.
Also the "grazing" of food is not good. If you added up the amount the dog eats in one day, it's probably more than two balanced meals. Being The Boss and handing out the food, is one of ways of reinforcing control. -
Message 23
Posted by Hazel Wooley (U2338026) on Friday, 18th June 2010
Just thought I'd add my tuppence worth. I free feed my dogs. They are in perfect weight and they don't have a feast or famine mentality. OTOH, I can say to both of them to 'leave it' and they won't touch their food until I tell them otherwise.
Having a strong, young dog is a problem. My Pointer is 78lbs of pure muscle so I definitely feel your pain, Torbie. The trainer I used taught this technique. When the dog pulls ahead of you, you step in front of them, face them and make them back up and sit. When they have done so, they get a tiny treat and you start to walk again, until the next time they pull ahead. It's a really tedious exercise, but with some diligence it does work. He reckoned that 20 minutes a day on this and other things, like sit, stand, etc. would pay off. I have to say that he was right. -
Message 24
Posted by torbie (U14274535) on Monday, 21st June 2010
An update: went to training school last night and discussed the problem with her trainer. Her advice was, every time she pulls on the lead change direction. Been trying it out in the garden today and she seems to be much better. Testing time will be when we do it on the open road!
Many thanks to one and all for the helpful suggestions.
Torbs -
Message 25
Posted by torbie (U14274535) on Sunday, 11th July 2010
An update.
Last week I had two individual one to one lessons with the teacher and Megan at home. Wonderful! She's got her to accept the head collar and walk with it and although she still pulls a fair bit, at least I'm in control. She's given me a small tin with a few coins in it and every time Megan starts to pull the head collar off I rattle the tin and she stops. Also, she's no longer trying to jump up at passers by when we're out walking. I still have to stop her jumping up at visitors who come to the house but things are definitely going in the right direction. I'd recommend anyone struggling to contact the Kennel Club for a list of local dog trainers. It's well worth the effort to have a well behaved dog.
Happy dog walking to everyone!
Torbs -
Message 26
Posted by Lady Macbeϯh - not without mustard (U550479) on Sunday, 11th July 2010
Sun, 11 Jul 2010 19:40 GMT, in reply to torbie in message 24
Her advice was, every time she pulls on the lead change directionÂ
Tried that with my lab x who is a terrible puller on the lead*. We both just get fed up.
*She walks like a lamb on a harness, though.
I would never allow a dog to graze. Especially not a lab. At five months she should be getting 3 meals a day.
My dogs are fed once a day and are perfectly happy and don't beg for food or scavenge. They know when it's 6pm, though! -
Message 27
Posted by Lady Macbeϯh - not without mustard (U550479) on Sunday, 11th July 2010
Sun, 11 Jul 2010 19:55 GMT, in reply to Lady Macbeth - not without Mustard in message 26
I have another trick to stop pulling, but you need time.
Take dog out. The minute she starts pulling, turn round and come home. Wait 10 minutes. Repeat.
Wait 30 minutes. Repeat.
Wait 30 minutes. Repeat.
OR:
5 minute walk every hour. Exactly the same route.
With a pup, pulling is often just about being excited. If you can knock the excitement on the head, you win. -
Message 28
Posted by torbie (U14274535) on Tuesday, 13th July 2010
Many thanks, Lady M.
She's now walking very well with the head gear on and with the increased stimulation and outside interest of this her appetite seems more controlled. She's eating most of her food in one go rather than just nibbling all day so we seem to have killed two problems in one go!
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