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Paul Murton travels through old Perthshire, shrouded in a mythic past when kelpies lurked in the lochs of the Trossachs. He lends a hand bringing in the cattle and hears how Rob Roy MacGregor might not have been the romantic figure of popular fiction. Was he a hero or just a cattle thief? At Rob Roy’s graveside, Paul meets a man who casts doubts on the clansman’s last resting place.

He then travels along a disused railway above a beautiful loch to a place where the earth once moved for folk at the 'Shaky Toun'. A trek on horseback takes him to Loch Tay, where he goes back to the Iron Age and learns how to light a fire without matches. Scaling a local giant, journey’s end is on the summit of mist-wreathed Ben Lawers.