World Cup fever kicks in
John claimed he was into rugby - "just like everybody else in Dunedin" - which is why I started asking him questions about the . "How excited are you to be hosting it again after 24 years? Will the All Blacks win it?"
Ok, so this line of questioning is unlikely to win me a but I'm thinking John's reply should fill a blog. Then, a couple of minutes into our chat, he starts railing against the "popinjays" in charge of the national broadcasters for only showing rugby on the telly.
"I'm a motorbikes man myself but it's never on bloody TV," says John, getting angrier all the time. "All there ever is is bloody rugby. Why can't they show anything else? Like bloody motorbikes?"
My cabbie - that's right, the same one as yesterday - sounds vaguely apologetic when he says he isn't into rugby. "I try to keep up to date," he tells me, conspiratorially, "but only because it's what anybody wants to talk about - even the women."
The revelations of the naysayers are telling: if you're not into rugby union in Dunedin, it's akin to being a member of some secret coven. Not exactly like being a witch in Medieval Europe - you're not going to get burnt at the stake or anything - but as close as you're likely to get in a modern, sporting context.
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In Dunedin city centre on Friday afternoon, things are livening up after a low-key start to the week. In the eye of the Octagon, schoolkids are taking part in a competition (kind of a Kiwi take on a hip hop 'battle') as groups of Argentines draped in the national flag and Englishmen dressed as knights look on.
"It's quite exciting to be fair," says Dunedin native Richie, doing his best not to look too excited. "There hasn't been much going on in the build-up, although today is the first day it's really hit home. It's usually fairly laid back and relaxed down here, so to have a lot of people bustling around is a bit of a novelty."
"What about if you don't like rugby?" I ask him. Richie pauses, then answers: "The in-laws don't like rugby, I s'pose, but then they're from Germany..."
I catch up with Calum outside The Craic Irish Tavern and he seems offended when I refer to Dunedin as sleepy. "There's a big student population, so it's not as sleepy as some might imagine," says Calum. "And with the new stadium being built, we're attracting more and more."
The new ground is indeed a Barely a month old, it will host four World Cup matches - including England's opener against the Pumas on Saturday - as well as Elton John later this year. Unless Elton throws a wobbler.
The world's first fully-enclosed grass stadium, it was built to replace the legendary Carisbrook, which is back on the other side of town. Nicknamed nowadays Carisbrook looks more like a rickety house of cards.
From my guesthouse at the top of a very steep street - it's not called the Grand View for nothing, as my calves will testify - I can see the said Otago Stadium, looking proud as punch beneath Signal Hill.
Simon, co-owner of the Grand View, gives a sweep of his arm and asks me what I think of the place - in that tentative way Kiwis often do, as if anticipating a negative response.
"What's not to like?" I reply, as I take in the view of the Otago Peninsular. "We just seem so cut off down here at times," says Simon. "It's such a long way away from anything else - it's good that everyone's coming here this time instead of us having to go to you."
On the TV, an old ladies choir is singing All Blacks 'classics' before the programme segues into a 'symposium' on how much rugby defines the Kiwi male. As each contributor says his piece, a caption appears beneath him, helpfully informing us he's a 'New Zealand Bloke'.
I head back into the centre of town to watch the All Blacks play Tonga in their opening pool match and on my way pass the England team hotel. Outside is hooker Dylan Hartley, chatting away to fly-half Toby Flood. Fortress Rustenburg, where England's footballers were holed up for the 2010 World Cup, this isn't.
"It's great to see players from the big teams just walking around town," says Simon. "It makes everyone feel a part of it." Fans and players alike.
I've read that all the World Cup heartbreak has left All Blacks fans with psychological scars, but not a bit of it - at least according to Gary, down at Speight's Ale House.
"The whole country is expecting to win," he says. "If they don't, everyone will be pretty disappointed. You might say it's not too healthy to have all your emotions invested in one thing but there is no ingrained pessimism as far as I can tell. We never expect things to go wrong - it just often does."
The All Blacks, as expected, give the Tongans a tonking, up in Auckland. Consequently, Dunedin is going wild, or as wild as Dunedin can go.
"There is a sense that rugby's coming home at this World Cup," adds Gary. "I think it's reinvigorated our passion for the sport, which seems to have been waning in the last couple of years." "What about England's chances?" I ask him. "Secretly, I'd like to see the Argies cause an upset." Not such a secret now.
Back at the Grand View, Simon taps his nose and calls me into the breakfast room. "There's a rugby match in town tomorrow," he says. "I know," I reply, "England versus Argentina." "Yeh, that, and the Nude Blacks versus the Saucy Senoritas." "What's the catch?" "The catch is, the Senoritas have to keep their bikinis on..."
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Comment number 1.
At 9th Sep 2011, botleyboy wrote:NZ lives and breathes rugby and I love it for that.
I visited in January a few years ago and drove down the west coast of the South Island. We stopped in a small town/village with a population of around 70 and stumbled across a touch rugby game that must have included more than half of that population. Each team must have been about twenty a side man, woman and child. I don't think you would find that anywhere else in the world.
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Comment number 2.
At 9th Sep 2011, Darth_Tranquil wrote:Is there a town anywhere in the world (outside Afghanistan at least) which doesn't have an 'Irish tavern'? I remember finding one in a small town in rural China...
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Comment number 3.
At 9th Sep 2011, HERSHS BIG BROTHER wrote:Yup, good article. Loving the story of the biking bloke. Can picture it exactly!
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Comment number 4.
At 9th Sep 2011, pezzerman wrote:it is only this ingrained passion for rugby which allows a country with a population of just 4 million to be a world super power in the sport...despite their world cup dissapointments over the years!
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Comment number 5.
At 10th Sep 2011, dalpengi wrote:NZrs do love rugby but it can be suffocating at times if you like other sports. I sympathise with the motorcycles guy. Add to that the feeling of isolation you have in NZ and although I do like rugby, I feel I need to get out of here from time to time and experience other things.
The importance of rugby to this nation is immense. A good evidence of this is that this is probably one of the areas where the tall poppies syndrome does not apply.
I hope NZ continues to strive for high level of achievement in rugby, but wish did would spillover into other areas as well, and not just sporting ones.
I have been embarrassed by the lack of organisation in Auckland yesterday and the level those in charge were under-prepared.
I do hope the All Blacks put on a strong performance. The last 12 months have been hard for New Zealand, so it would be good if people had something to cheer about. Just hope we are gracious in win and defeat.
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Comment number 6.
At 10th Sep 2011, TheSecondStain wrote:Lived in New Zealand, no more than 150Ks away from Dunedin, in Gore, back in the early 1990s. Yes, I can sympathise with John and his love for motorbikes. So he loves his bike racing too. I can't knock Rugby, as it's a great sport, but it's a shame NZ is so singularly RU mad, because it's also arguably the best motorcycling country in the world too, being as so few cars frequent the roads. And there are so many beautiful twists and turns on those highways over on the West Coast, South Island, or in the mountain passes. What they need is a few more Bruce Ansteys to be proud of.
.
Of course, there's always the cricket..!
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Comment number 7.
At 10th Sep 2011, SouthSeaIslander wrote:Let's hear your opinion after Sat night, Ben. You really need to experience Dunedin when the ABs are in town though. Dunedin and Cardiff are the 2 cities in the world that basically stop for Test day.
I know loads of people that don't really follow rugby in NZ. The difference though is that 99% of the population could still give you a sensible view on any particular game, whereas most other countries if people aren't into rugby they couldn't tell you the first thing about it.
And I think that will be the key to the RWC - everyone can understand what's going on so it makes it more enjoyable to get involved and will hopefully make much more of a party out of it all.
Great start to the tourny by Romania btw. Now, c'mon the Argies...!!!
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Comment number 8.
At 10th Sep 2011, mankyblue wrote:Have lived out here for getting on six years now and what's comparable between NZ and UK is the obsession of winning the world cup, for England its football and for NZ its rugby. Anything short of winning it at a canter will be a failure out here, there was rumbles last night because they didnt distroy Tonga, the favoured bet last night was to beat them by 60 points !!!! One thing i do enjoy about the Kiwis though is they are terrible loosers. As long as England get further than the AB's I'll be happy, cannot see it though as England are 12-1 to win it out here and the AB's 1.65 to 1. Crazy!!! COME ON ENGLANDS and yes i did put a lazy tenner on England to win it.
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Comment number 9.
At 10th Sep 2011, jimmy chewwit wrote:@1 - the pacific islanders are arguably even more passionate, every tiny little grouping of houses has a rugby field - its crazy! It does make you very jealous as a man from England, just think how good we could be if we had half the following in our country.
I think the RFU is shameful in trying to engage working class schools in England, we still have a game with a public school image, would anyone disagree?
I have always thought the RFU should do a trail on a relatively undeveloped rugby area (like the North East - sorry but thats from where I hail and I cant remember more than 1/2 non public schools with a Rugby team) and try to persuade schools to hold an extra 2/3hrs of sports a week to focus solely on Rugby. This would build a strong grass roots momentum to feed the local clubs, and might even get some following for the local teams (who im sure would feel obliged to support with free tickets etc). The RFU might even go so far as to supply coaches (as well as free coaching courses, encouragement to set-up/develop more mini rugby clubs and try to encourage local pros out every afternoon to support the initative. This would smooth out any financial pain this might cause in the school system. I would guess in 10 years you might go some way towards creating a NZ / South Wales Rugby following and start developing some players with flair.
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Comment number 10.
At 10th Sep 2011, Nic Oatridge wrote:The romance of small nations dominating in world sports are amongst the greatest stories in the game. The West Indies at cricket, Switzerland in downhill skiing, Kenya in long-distance running... and NZ in Rugby. Sometimes countries and their people are conferred natural advantages, but in NZ only passion at all ages and levels of society are attributable. Look at how the West Indies faded when local kids took up other sports instead of cricket.
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Comment number 11.
At 10th Sep 2011, Hoppers wrote:Will NZ choke again? A few world cup stats and a comparison between Jonah Lomu and Ronaldo....
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Comment number 12.
At 10th Sep 2011, Ian_the_chopper wrote:Having been to Dunedin, apparently it was designed on the same plan as Edinburgh but they decided to just ignore the hills, I can sympathise re the pain in the calves.
At times you feel you would need a sherpa. Apparently Dunedin has the world's steepest street in it.
Lovely as the new stadium is I feel we lose something with these modern shiny stdiums and miss the raw atmosphere of the old stadiums. Its a real shame about the House of Pain.
The RWC is becoming like any international tournament with loads of identikit modern stadiums designed for sponsors and hospitality rather than true fans.
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Comment number 13.
At 10th Sep 2011, Reinas Golden Gloves wrote:@12 - Sounds alot like Haverfordwest in wales then!!! (about a needing a sherpa that is!)
Yes i agree about these new stadiums.
The millennium stadium got it just right in my opinion and im suprised there are not more stadiums like it. The stadium in Dundein looks like a modern attempt at the millennium that went more for style than substance (although i hope im proved wrong!!!
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Comment number 14.
At 10th Sep 2011, blitar wrote:Although surely not intended, the "Kiwi take on a hip hop battle" comment may be a little a little patronising - we recently won the world champs!
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Comment number 15.
At 10th Sep 2011, tropicalqueen wrote:As a Auckland born Samoan living in Cairo, the opening ceremony was definitely a spectacle to be very proud of :). Having lived 7.5 years in the South Island, I can only imagine the RWC 'awakening' a 'sleepy' Dunedin- to be sure, 'sleepy' is not an adjective often associated with Dunedin, especially while university classes are in session. Go the AB's and the Manu! :)
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Comment number 16.
At 10th Sep 2011, derycr wrote:There aren't many places where rugby union is usually the lead story on the back pages, S.Africa, parts of S.W France, here in S.Wales and NZ where it's front page stuff often too(maybe the South Sea Islands too,somebody can fill me in on that).You won't find many in NZ who don't like rugby,I only ever found one, a rather camp bus driver in Wellington.It's one reason why I can't see the Kiwis not winning this one,the pressure on them is great,the pressure on their opponents will be greater. I can identify with the man who liked bikes and the poster who had to get out of NZ now and again. However big a rugby fan you are,after 2 months in NZ I started to wonder if anybody really concerned themselves with anything else.Mind you, Wales is pretty passionate about which is why there's a strong sense of kinship as two rugby nations(sadly not as compatitive as it was, Bill Mclaren used to call Wales/Nz the biggest game in world rugby,..oh,how times have changed).Nevertheless, anybody who's heard a taff/kiwi debate on the 'Deans Try' will know what I mean...
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Comment number 17.
At 11th Sep 2011, njr1330 wrote:Replying to 'Is there any town that dosn't have an "Irish Bar".... Yes, Dublin, funnily enough!
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