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Do chefs really care about Michelin stars?

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Michael Kibblewhite Michael Kibblewhite | 15:39 UK time, Tuesday, 18 January 2011

The results are in. Europe鈥檚 most famous judge of culinary craft has broken its silence. We now know which restaurants will bear small stars beside their name in the

The to the Guide鈥檚 ratings has already started, in particular why some restaurants attained a star and why others didn鈥檛. What truly defines a one, two or three star venue still remains because of Michelin鈥檚 relatively ambiguous criteria. It continues to stir a mystique 鈥 so how does the rating affect the kitchen?

Gordon Ramsay

Gordon Ramsay's thirst for Michelin stars was revealed in the documentary series, Boiling Point

We鈥檙e often told that many chefs develop a parochial lifestyle in the obsessive pursuit of attaining Michelin stars. Perhaps the revered French Chef Bernard Loiseau, who , is proof.

A documentary last year by food writer William Sitwell investigated the Michelin Guide鈥檚 affect on chefs. Bernard Loiseau鈥檚 wife, Dominique, appeared in the programme to discuss her husband鈥檚 obsession with Michelin prior to his death. She explained movingly how and why the restaurant , despite the sad, sudden parting of its driver, the engine restarted.

Within the UK, Marcus Wareing had the to win the coveted third star, yet instead was awarded two stars. I spoke to him last week about the Guide to shed to light on why it鈥檚 spurred an emotional "roller-coaster" for the past 15 years.

鈥淭hey are an accolade of great history and substance; I think I鈥檝e around it, in a good way and a bad way.鈥 Yet he believes chefs are 鈥渟tarting to realise that there鈥檚 a lot more out there to achieve鈥, paying homage to other awards and social networking鈥檚 grip on a restaurant鈥檚 fate. 鈥淎s you get a bit older you start to understand them and calm down.鈥 What do other chefs believe?

Francesco Mazzei, whose restaurant , was also tipped for a star, but missed out again. For him, 鈥渁 Michelin star is the best achievement a chef can ever gain. It helps the chef to become a perfectionist. But in terms of running a restaurant, it鈥檚 a different story. You have to make sure that the restaurant makes money, so you can pay your staff and it can have a long life.鈥

Bryn Williams trained in several Michelin-starred kitchens before owning his own restaurant, . He was equally restrained on how stars affect his life. 鈥淵ou do see places get a Michelin star and then eight months later they're no longer with us because of that pressure in trying to gain a star. For me it鈥檚 all about the business.鈥

Chefs don鈥檛 necessarily take a sanguine attitude to winning Michelin stars these days 鈥 activity on Twitter suggested the opposite. At the grass roots, William Sitwell told me that the majority of young chefs he meets at catering college still list a Michelin star and owning a restaurant as the aspiration.

Maybe Michelin stars are 鈥渘ot the be all and end all鈥, as Marcus Wareing says. Incidentally, he likens fine dining to Formula 1 鈥 with the surroundings, levels of service and the running costs 鈥 and that being part of a 鈥渂eautifully-oiled machine鈥, in the kitchen and front of house, is actually what drives him. But if the Michelin stars should ever disappear, then Dominique Loiseau is surely living proof that a bad review should never mean the end of the road.

Have you been following the ratings? What do Michelin stars mean to you?

Michael Kibblewhite works on the 主播大秀 Food website.

Comments

  • Comment number 1.

    For me it means that the restaurant prices are going to go through the roof and I won't ever be able to eat there.

  • Comment number 2.

    It is nice to be awarded for doing a good job, in any field. And the best thing any chef can do is to make sure the people are happy too, dining at his restaurant.That's going to bring in the 'moolah'.Makes the chef double happy!

  • Comment number 3.

    "Au Revoir to All That" by Michael Steinberger is an interesting read.

  • Comment number 4.

    There was also some discussion on the messageboard this week about Michelin stars:

    /dna/mbfood/NF2670471

    Dee: Oh yes - I noticed & printed off the new list. Firstly looked at a couple of our favourite places (1 star) to see if they had retained them (they had), then at a very disappointing one we visited last year where the food wasn't very good & the service pretty bad (the waitress did not look at us, smile or utter one word to us even when taking our order and we had to ask for some cutlery). I notice that a certain 3 star restaurant is now a 2 star - I bet that stung!! If we are on holiday & there is a starred restaurant within reasonable distance, we try to visit it. We go at lunchtime & most do a really good lunch deal that works out a similar price to good "pub grub". It is one of the highlights of our hols.

    Joanbunting: Yes I noticed too and was horrified to see that a place where we had a truly awful meal and even worse service last summer had been awarded a second star! We tend to buy the Michelin France one year and Gaut Millau the next. One of my favourite tricks when travelling is to choose a starred restaurant and find a really simple hotel close by.

    LeCreusetFiend: There seems to be a bit of a backlash against Michelin this year (see Jay Rayner's column in the food section of the Guardian). But, as I've said elsewhere, I was thrilled that Glynn Purnell retained his star for his fabulous restaurant in my home city of Birmingham, and also pleased to see Nathan Outlaw gain a second star - I've only eaten at his place once, but it was one of the best meals I've ever, EVER had!

    Denadar: Yes, I had noticed and yes I do care. Some friends of mine and I try to have a foodie weekend every year, and must admit we do take notice of these ratings. We will now have to go back to Bray as I'd love to try "Parky's" Pub. I wonder if that star will give Heston an incentive to raise the standard of the food at the Hind's Head. Although I really enjoyed the food and the experience at the Fat Duck, I think it was the Waterside Inn that would warrant a return visit.

  • Comment number 5.

    This piece in The Wall Street Journal might also be of interest:



    "Who needs Hardens or Zagat to aggregate other diners' responses in these salad days of the Internet, when, at a click, you can read the whole of a food blogger's opinion about almost any restaurant you can name? If you are interested in somebody else's views, at least the blogs give you the chance to examine that person's reasoning and prejudices."

  • Comment number 6.

    I don't care about stars as long as the food is tasty and you have the feeling that the chefs are only cooking things they really are able to. Furthermore they should doing their job with passion!

  • Comment number 7.

    Fair enough price is usually comparable to amount of Michelin Stars a chef/restaurant has achieved but on the whole the food will be amazing!!

  • Comment number 8.

    On a slightly different note, but still relevant... Woman鈥檚 Hour on Monday was about Michelin stars and women, and asked if the chef profession is becoming more women-friendly:

    /programmes/b00yj18h

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