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This morning we had a starling fly down the lum and straight into the roaring fire. Talk about a nasty wakeup! As the house filled with the wretched stench of burning feathers I lit an incense sick to counter the nastiness. Five minutes later Erlend announced, "What's that disgusting smell??"

Right.

So, I'm trying to stay warm without having the heat cranked and using up too much oil and energy. A few months ago I bought a variety of layerable upmarket shirts and pants and long under things so that my clothes would last (I figured they would be of better quality then the last batch of clothes that fell apart in two months flat...) Well, my efforts were in vain because now I look like a Hobo. So: I bought a cloak for warmth and for something to hide under...


Here is my grey winter tent under which I can hide my ratty clothes as well as avoid hypothermia in these stiff Orcadian breezes...


I had it lined in velvet so I wouldn't go insane with itchyness.


The arm slits are a must - the last thing I want to do during an Orcadian gale is unbotton the cloak so I can scratch at my nose!!!

The only problem I have encountered with this wind-rain-cold proof garment of wonder...is the fact that I sweep things off of the shelves in the stores!!

I still totally get a kick about how Island folk buzz around in ferries like we used busses back home! While everyone else lounges about looking bored I look like Zeb when he gets to ride in the car. "Oh WOW! This is sooo cool! Ooo! Look at THAT! And THAT! Ooooo I love ferries..."

Our Priest, Father Ronnie Walls, headed out to say Mass at "Saville" on the isle of Sanday via plane and I tagged along via ferry. I felt like I would be imposing because I would have to stick around until 6pm but the Soords were very welcoming! (That's my stiff Puritan New England culture clashing with the relaxed Orcadian culture...)

Lucky for me the weather was nice and I was able to sit out on one of the weather decks as the ferry made it's way to Sanday. Upon arrival I had been told to look for a "red bus" that would take me to Saville - but my American eyes saw no such bus, just cars and vans. I had forgotten the Soord's telephone number but just as I started to panic I realized that all I had to do was flag a local down and say, "I have a bad leg and cannot walk far - may I please have a ride?" This Britian place is good for that kind of thing - it's much like rual America here in the British isles!

When I reached the end of the gang plank I heard a friendly voice say, "Are you Michelle?" Ha!! Alas!! The "bus" was a wee red van and I soon found myself puttering around Sanday while the driver struggled in vain to get his door to remain shut. We had a good laugh about this...

When I arrived at Saville I once again fought against my New England culture as I found that my knock had gone unanswered. Oh - but there was a door bell! I pushed the button and a light in the hallway went on. It was a light switch for pity sake!! Finally I just did the Island Thing and walked in the door and hollered, "Helloooo?"


My "hellooo" was answered and I soon found myself bein steered for the chapel because Mass was about to begin. The suspense was killing me - I couldn't wait to see what it looked like!


I found myself in a bonnie little chapel filled to the brim with folk, both Catholic and Protestant - including the local minister!


It was the fourth week of Advent when I visited and the Advent wreath was lovely! We sang, we prayed, we had Mass and then all around me I heard folk saying to one another, "Will you be staying for a cup of tea?" I was delighted because then I'd have the chance to meet everyone! Imagine our shock when the Soord's laid out a mouth-watering four course meal!! We didn't eat - we feasted! And we all talked and had a grand time and then folk filtered away. After the house had emptied I accompanied Maurice to the airport in order to drop Father off for his flight. (Both coming and going he was the only passenger!) Maurice gave me a bit of a tour of the island and then we returned to Saville and he gave me a tour of the critters.


There were chickens...


Goats...


Christmas Dinner...


And Geraldine the donkey!! (She's trying to find a carrot in Maruice's hand...) All of the critters were wonderfully tame (I hugged the goats and the donkey!) and they ate porridge!! (Even the buckoos!)


Jean (Mrs. Soord) would not allow me to help with the dishes so Maurice showed me their beach and the moonlight over the water was absolutely stunning.


Even a nearby ruin looked divine in the sunset.


The Soords were very kind to me as I hung around until it was time to fetch the ferry. Before I left they stuffed me full of good food and still seemed to like me even after I hogged down the remaining portion of home-baked olive bread. (I love to eat.) The ferry arrived and I enjoyed another smooth crossing - only this time it was dark so I crashed on one of the benches inside and snoozed. When I arrived in Kirkwall my handsome Erlend (and smelly dog) were waiting to snatch me up and zoom back to the farm.

A lovely day all around! I can't WAIT to go back to Sanday.